Colore, Bibi Graetz 2021

Intense aromas of purple fruits such as raspberry, spice, lead pencil and granite. Perfumed flowers as well. Full-bodied, tight with poised tannins that show transparency and focus. Crunchy and very long. Better after 2028 when it opens and integrates beautifully.

Seductive and layered, the 2021 Colore is also entirely Sangiovese, coming from 100-year-old vines. It pours a rich magenta/ruby hue and reveals pure and luxurious aromas of black cherry liqueur, fresh lavender, polished leather, cedar, and sweet sage. Medium to full-bodied, it’s chiseled and well-defined, with refined, plush tannins, harmonious depth, and an extraordinarily long finish that slowly tapers. This is a stunning wine from Bibi Graetz that will only improve with proper cellar time. It’s remarkable. Drink 2027-2050. (Drink between 2027-205

Another excellent wine from Bibi Graetz made from selected old-vine Sangiovese. Herbal and spiced on the nose, fragrant but with savoury aspects rather than overtly floral or fruity. Intense and direct, this hits you square on, with energy and forward motion. So sleek and well defined, smooth yet lively and energetic with tannins that are so beautifully executed. Almost plush and chewy giving weight and texture to the palate while actually being quite light and aerial overall. Complex and invigorating, fresh and wild at the same time - I love the character, it's pure but with a sense of authenticity that encapsulates the terroir and winemaking philosophy so wonderfully. Ends with a minty, liquorice, spiced blackcurrant and cool cherry element that is extremely moreish! (Drink between 2026-2045)

Production of Colore in 2021, like Testamatta, was down slightly on 2020, with around 30,000 bottles produced, due to the decision to drop 20% of the fruit in the vineyard. ‘2021 was a really hot vintage,' said Bibi, ‘but with all this fantastic selection, the wines were perfect.‘ While earlier vintages of Testamatta included some old-vine fruit, Bibi now reserves all old vines for Colore. Vinification is very similar to Testamatta – fermentation in open-top French oak barriques, 50hl casks and stainless steel tanks depending on the size of the parcel; malo in old barriques and casks; but ageing for Colore is in used French oak barriques rather than a mixture of barrique, tonneau and stainless steel. The combination of reduced yields, the inclusion for the first time of some north-slope fruit, and the new winery in Fiesole has seen a step-change in quality: Colore 2021 is incredibly energetic, with ripe red and black fruit aromas and a balsamic waft leading to a fleshy palate showcasing sweet and sapid raspberry, cherry and pomegranate. Fine, integrated tannins and zesty acidity really help to drive this wine forward, with a really long, stony and cool menthol finish. Superb. (Drink between 2024-2043)