Cabernet Merlot Awatea, Te Mata Estate 2023

The 2023 Awatea Cabernets Merlot comprises 52% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Aromatically, this wine is thrilling: dusty cassis, bramble, raspberry pip, blood/iodine, sweet tobacco, raw cocoa, violet perfume, tarragon and fennel and a hint of hazelnut/nutmeg. In the mouth, the wine is savory, structural, spicy and chewy, with a ductile splay of tannin that moves across the palate and through the finish. The palate speaks of structure and shape, while the fruit is mostly on the nose at this early stage. This will evolve beautifully in bottle over time, and as the bottle I am tasting here today was bottled four weeks ago, no doubt your bottle will look more polished and sleek. As it is, I love it, but I am sure I will like it more in time. It is a magnificent wine and a tremendous value. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under 44-millimeter Diam 10 cork (usually it's a 44-millimeter natural cork). Next year it will be a 49-millimeter Diam 10 cork. Drink: 2024-2043

A lot of care went into making the 2023 Awatea, and it continues to represent a lot of hard work for your money. This is not a heavyweight style but a rather elegant, mid-weight expression with Merlot playing the main role. It's finely fragrant with black fruit and capsicum characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon. I like that the Cabernet Franc shows through with its the lifted raspberries, violets and graphite playing the role of backing singer. The 2023 is classy and delicately handled, with excellent integration of tannins and oak and a long, drawn-out finish. Drink: 2025-2037