Corton Charlemagne, Henri Boillot 2022

A markedly floral-suffused nose somewhat grudgingly reveals its array of exuberantly fresh and spicy Granny Smith apple, acacia blossom, oyster shell and iodine. While there is certainly good richness to the succulent and seductive broad-shouldered flavors, the mouthfeel is really quite sleek with both good detail and power to the taut, serious and built-to-age finale that is given a bit of lift from the presence of bitter citrus rind. This is almost painfully intense and youthfully austere effort could use better depth but that should present no particular problem if it's given a chance to develop. This too is first-rate. (Drink starting 2034)

Powerful, dense, and supple, the Corton Charlemagne from Boillot is an impressive wine with aromas of ripe apple, quince and apricot, floral notes, and butter. The grapes are sourced from parcels in Aloxe and Pernand; Boillot purchases the fruit as grapes, and his team does the harvest and the pressing. The result is classic Corton-Charlemagne in style that will open properly in three to five years and should age for 20 beyond that. (Drink between 2027-2055)