Region | |
---|---|
Subregion | Spain |
Colour | White |
Type | Still |
First vintage was 2016. Based on Vijireiga Blanca, a variety from the Canaries. They were the first to grow it here but now let others have cuttings. Aged for 18 months in barrels and foudres. 100% sourced from Pago Añina. Certified organic. Very firm nose promising lots of structure. Very different from Palomino. Strong and firm and citrus. Excellent acidity and weight. Kumquat flavours. Long.
The intensity of this quince-and-citrus wine is remarkable – it feels as if a helical spiral of tremors has coiled in on itself and sent into orbit along a path of calm, spine-tingling purity. The energy of the acidity meeting the energy of the minerality is like watching crystals grow under a microscope. Exquisite; mesmerising; a silent kaleidoscopic cacophony of choreography. But the fruit has this extraordinary stillness that seems to pool like limelight through and through the structure. It smells like ocean spray on lemon leaves, like crushed rock samphire flowers. It tastes of pink finger limes, toasted spelt grains, citron peel, green almonds in spring-flower honey, candied Ponderosa peel. It has bite, curve, line, angle. Poetry and physics, acoustics and salt. I just fell in love with this extraordinary wine that, I firmly believe, could hold its own head high if you lined it up with some pretty special high-end white wines including grand cru Chardonnay. My fingers hovered over the score, and I only decided at the last minute to go 17.5 instead of 18 because I haven't tasted other vintages and the 2021 is all I know about it. It probably deserves an 18. VGV. Drink 2024-2034.
An intense nose showing a stony, mineral verve to the cooked lemons, apple pie and kernels. Quite intense and concentrated in flavor with a saline twist to the medium- to full-bodied palate. Long, tangy finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.