XIX Crafted by Liberty, Van Zellers & Co. 1860

This is the lightest in colour of these three 19th-century tawnies, a sort of browny ochre colour with a bit of green. Even though it is sweet, it smells somehow savoury thanks to the nutty and polished-wood aromas alongside sweeter notes of raisins and dried figs. There's also hints of dried flowers, mostly lavender, caramelised bitter orange. With time, a suggestion of curry spice. But even while trying to tease out all these complex, intervowen impressions, the overriding one is elegance, refinement and remarkable freshness. Utterly mouth-watering on the finish.

Pale mahogany, yellow tinge at the rim. A nose that is hard to describe, with such a weight of age yet remarkable vibrancy and life. There are layers of rosemary, cigar leaf, toasted hazelnuts, dried green figs and so much more. This benefits from a little air, unfurling over time to show more layers of fruit which balance the nutty, woody tones of age. On the palate this has incredible intensity, piercing in its briney, salted fruit character that is layered with wave upon wave of spice. The acid-sugar balance is impeccable, giving a measured sweetness yet bright, mouthwatering freshness. This is a self-assured powerhouse, with multi-dimensional flavours that are ever changing in the glass. A special and emotional wine, a chance to drink history that also delivers quality at the very highest level.