Lascombes 2023

A wine that begins a new era for this estate, the 2023 Lascombes (which I examined from separate components before tasting the prospective blend) offers up aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of crushed mint, violets and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and velvety, with good depth and purity, it's a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. This estate, which was formerly one of the Médoc's poster children for over-ripeness and over-extraction, is assuredly coming in from the cold.

The 2023 Lascombes has a fragrant and floral bouquet. Incoming erstwhile Ornellaia winemaker Axel Heinz has fashioned more refined aromatics compared to previous vintages, with lively black fruit laced with violet and a scintilla of vanilla. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture and fine acidity, quite poised with a subtle saline note towards the finish. There's better structure here than in previous vintages. This restyled Margaux indicates a welcome new direction for the estate and evidences greater selection in the vineyard. Watch this space.

Still a ripe and silky style, there are clearly signs of progress under Axel Heinz in his first vintage. Oily blackberry and cassis fruit dominate both nose and palate, but there is too a floral accent more synonymous with the Margaux appellation. The tannins are a bit chunky, but they are much more polished than in the past. A ripe, but not overdone wine, this is promising for the future of the property as the refinement in style quickly takes hold.

Aromas of stone, black licorice, tar, blackberry and slightly burnt orange. Medium to full body with a solid core of tannins and tight but juicy fruit. More chiseled and tannic than in the past.

The 2023 Lascombes is deep garnet-purple in color. Scents of freshly crushed blackberries, cassis, and black raspberries leap from the glass, leading to touches of menthol, dark chocolate, licorice, and violets in the background. The medium-bodied palate delivers impressive intensity, with vibrant black and red berry layers and a fine-grained texture lifted by a racy backbone, finishing long and minerally. This represents a real change in style to a classic beauty! The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot.

All eyes on this estate for its first full vintage with Axel Heinz. It's clear that the build and construction is more serious than in the past, but most impressive is the juicy pleasure to be found in the layers of inky, nuanced, textured fruits, with sculpted tannins and well-judged grilled cedar oak. Inky, savoury, black fruits, savoury and lifted. Tasted twice, thoroughly enjoyable both times.

The 2023 Lascombes marks a new direction for the Chateau. Dark and virile, with real intensity, the 2023 marries richness and energy. Black cherry, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice emerge from the glass. This fleshes out beautifully on the finish, showing terrific breadth and nuance. The 2023 is, without question, the most elegant, finessed Lascombes made in many years. That won't surprise readers familiar with wines here that were often monolithic and one-dimensional. The 2023 will be a fascinating wine to follow. This is also a new chapter for Estate Director Axel Heinz, formerly at Ornellaia, who strikes me as a liberated winemaker these days—someone freed from the burden of expectations. Tasted three times. Drink 2030-2053.

Cask sample. Restrained nose but shows depth and precision. Lovely texture of tannin. Polished and without any excess. Long on the finish. Margaux elegance at last. (JL)
Drink 2030 – 2045