Charles Heidsieck Brut Millesime 2013

Disgorged in January of 2023, the 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut was the last vintage from the cellar master for Heidsieck prior to Cyril Brun. The 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut is a bright straw yellow color and is based on the crus of Les Mesnil, Avize, Averney, and Aÿ. It’s fresh with aromas of wet stones, fresh quince, and fresh jasmine flowers. It has a chalky and focused texture, with ripeness to balance it out, and a long, graceful finish. At this stage, it feels more forward with 57% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. A more mineral-tinged expression, it has a lot of charm and the promise of longevity over the coming two decades. Drink 2024-2044.

It will be interesting to see how the Pinot shows itself over time. 8 grams per liter dosage.One of the notable changes of the guard this year took place at Charles Heidsieck with the departure of Chef de Cave Cyril Brun, who passed the torch to Elise Losfelt, who had spent the past ten years working across the Moet & Chandon empire. During his seven-year tenure, Mr. Brun had been bold in taking the house into its next chapter by making advancements in the winery while also paying homage to the house's history. First, he reintroduced old vinification principles of only using old barrels. He also began trials right away in 2015 to bring back the Champagne Charlie Cuvée, with the first edition, the 2017, just released into the market last year. Champagne Charlie was always labeled as a vintage wine, but it is now known to have been a blended style heavily reliant on reserve wines. The last release of the cuvée was the 1985 “vintage,” and the current release date coincides with Charles-Camille Heidsieck’s bicentennial. Brun had also implemented the use of jetting technique at disgorgement for oxygen management, the idea being to expose the wine early to oxygen, and then to close it in order to best preserve the wine’s longevity and freshness. He also expanded the range of cuvées while honoring previous cuvées. 2018 brought the relaunch of the Blanc de Blancs, a blended style from ten crus from different years, with the initial release base coming from the 2016 vintage.

A very striking nose with Reine Claude plums, old-fashioned apple varieties and some Nordic herbs. Structured and crisp with a very firm core, the finish driving and full of energy. Rich long finish with a chalky core. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, the make up of the blend very unconventional for this house. Drink or hold.

Intense aroma that combines ripe fruit – both citrus and pear – and also a touch of jasmine, as well as a deep, inviting yeasty autolytic character. Extremely complex and rewarding. On the palate, that same depth of yeasty/toasty character and the intense freshness of youthful fruit. An endless stream of very fine bubbles rising from the centre of the glass with bigger bubbles clinging to the sides – looks quite unusual. A powerful, long and vibrant wine that seems younger than its years. Extreme but balanced freshness with a slightly chewy finish as it warms up, as well as a suggestion of non-sweet honey. Excellent depth. Drink 2023-2032.

The bouquet of the 2013 Brut Millésimé is compellingly fresh and minty, complicated by notes of white fruit—notably pear and apple—citrus and gentle spices, as well as a light touch of smoke. With aeration, elegant pastry notes come to the fore. On the palate, this is a structured, tension-filled but airborne Champagne with racy acidity, fleshy and charming texture and a long, penetrating finish. It should age well over the next eight to 10 years. Disgorged in 2022 with nine grams per liter, this is a blend of 57% Pinot Noir and 43% Chardonnay. Drink 2023-2038.