| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | Spain > Castilla y León > Bierzo |
| Colour | Red |
| Type | Still |
They had not bottled the 2020 Ultreia Saint Jacques yet and were still waiting for the labels (and they label the day after they bottle), so I caught an unbottled sample that was very tender and fruit-driven, primary and quite open. He used more stems and full clusters in 2020, and since 2018, they have removed the percentage of white grapes that used to be included in the wine. It's a little more Mediterranean, with aromatic herbs and a more powerful palate. There will be some 120,000 bottles from 2020. Drink 2023 - 2026.
The Ultreia “St. Jacques” bottling from Raúl Pérez is made from a classic Bierzo old vine field blend, that is principally Mencía, but also includes several other grapes, such as Garnacha Tintorera and Bastardo. The vineyard was planted between 1900 and 1940, so even the young vines here are old vines! The soils are clay, rather than slate or granite and the wine is fermented with eighty percent whole clusters and raised in a variety of neutral oak vessels. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a deep, black fruity and complex constellation of cassis, sweet dark berries, pepper, coffee grounds, tree bark, dark soil tones, a touch of sweet botanicals and a topnote of cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and beautifully focused, with lovely depth at the core, good soil signature, ripe, buried tannins and a long, poised and very promising finish. This needs cellaring time, but it will be a superb drink once it is mature. 2033-2075.
Consistently one of the best value wines we taste each year, the 2020 Ultreia Saint Jacques is a step up on the 2019. Bright ruby-purple in the glass, this is fragrant with intense notes of black pepper, lavender, red berries and a hint of struck flint. The palate fizzes with energy, layering bright acids with succulent tannins to give the fruit a ripe yet tangy quality. Flitting between sweet blue and red fruits, the youthful fruit core is moreish and approachable. Hints of white pepper and dried rosemary add some complexity towards the finish, which is effortlessly long and lifted. Great value for money.
