Philipponnat Cuvée 1522 2008

The 2008 Extra Brut Grand Cru 1522 is also showing very well, offering up aromas of citrus, confit citrus, blackcurrants, marzipan and spice. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered and multidimensional core that marries the tangy acidic spine of the vintage with plenty of flesh and fruit, concluding with a long and chalky finish. While it's in a very different stylistic register to the 2009, the two are on a similar qualitative plane. 2019 - 2040

A blend of 52% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, the "1522" is made exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. Fermentation takes place in old oak, with just 20% malolactic fermentation to retain the freshness of the warm sites that is typical of the Philipponnat style. The 2008 spent eight years on its lees in the bottle before disgorgement and has a low dosage of just 4.5g/l. A pale straw colour in the glass, the nose is incredibly pure and youthful, with crisp red and green apples, juicy lemon and a touch of struck flint. With air, notes of toasted brioche and hazelnut come through. The palate has mouth-watering acidity that cuts through the creamy, persistent mousse and dense, ripe citrus fruit. The savoury, lightly meaty and creamy notes from lees ageing builds through the mid-palate. This has nice complexity but is still youthful, and it is the drive and precision that is most impressive at this stage. Long, bright and refreshing, this small production cuvée of just over 1000 cases is a standout wine in this price range.

The slightly dominant pinot-noir component (58 per cent) is outgunned by chardonnay’s grapefruit and lemons on the nose. Chalky, fresh and zesty, stony minerals here, too. The palate is dry, crisp and even with gently nutty warmth through the restrained, long and compact finish. Excellent. Try in 2020.