Chablis Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2022

The 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a serious, structured wine, unwinding in the glass with aromas of ripe, waxy citrus rind, crisp orchard fruit and white flowers, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, dense and satiny, it's layered, concentrated and multidimensional, with the most structure and substance of any wine in the range, but also the greatest need for patience to realize all its considerable potential.

Mostly from old vines, a good half planted between 1948 and 1952. Translucent lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is not ready to unfurl yet there is a sense of sublime purity about the nose. A wine in perfect harmony on its wide bench of white fruit. Just a little touch of spice behind, good acidity. Sign up for this! Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted: June 2023.