Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux Saint Jacques, Mortet, Arnaud 2017

Whereas the domaine's rendition is entirely destemmed, more than 30% of Arnaud Mortet's own label 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques was destemmed by hand, retaining the pedicels. The wine is consequently quite different in character, wafting from the glass with notes of peony, sweet spices, citrus peel and berry fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and vibrant, with fine-grained, powdery tannins that are worlds apart from the more classic structure of the domaine bottling, concluding with a long and succulent finish.