Brunello Riserva Filo di Seta, Romitorio 2016

After tasting and loving the annata, I had high expectations for the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta Riserva. This is youthfully restrained and grumbling in the glass, but it’s worth waiting for, as a captivating display of mentholated herbs, dusty rose, lavender, black cherries, hints of animal musk and crushed ashen stone evolves before your eyes. It’s deeply textural and polished in feel, but also full of zesty, cooling acidity that enlivens the sultry core of dark fruits and exotic spices. A saturation of tannin coats the palate, creating a massively structured and long finale with lingering remnants of salted licorice and inner violet tones. The 2016 Riserva Filo di Seta may be a masterpiece in the making, though it will be many years before it shows all of its hidden beauty. 2026-2040

The Castello Romitorio 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is beautiful in the way you would regard a contemporary painting awash in color, texture and broad brush strokes. It doesn't all line up at first glance, but then you are magically aware of the symmetry—between the lifted fruit aromas and the grounded spice and oak. The wine's various moving pieces come together in harmony. Thanks to its softly integrated tannins, it also shows great versatility in terms of its drinking window. You can enjoy it in the medium term or wait for later. Production is 6,900 bottles. 2024-2045