Nuits Saint Georges Les Saint Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges 2017

There is just enough wood to merit mentioning framing the aromas of plum liqueur, black raspberry, warm earth and a touch of the sauvage. There is excellent intensity to the overtly powerful and more mineral-driven medium weight flavors that culminate in a beautifully long and complex if markedly austere finish. This is even a bit firmer than the Vaucrains and as collectors of the Gouges wines know well, this will not make for especially accessible early drinking.

The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges is showing well, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoky berry fruit, licorice, candied peel, nori and rich soil tones, having already almost entirely integrated its framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely layered at the core, with good concentration, fine-grained but firm tannins and a precise, stony finish.