Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet 2014

**Note: from a .26 ha parcel in Puligny**
I have to say that as much as I love Chevalier, when Montrachet is 'on', it's the greater wine as it's just more complete. Well, this is one of those reference standard examples because while it takes several hours for the '14 Montrachet to get rolling, when it does it is quite simply unbelievable. Initially it is quite restrained and requires plenty of air to coax the remarkably complex aromas that are so layered that it is genuinely difficult to capture all of the nuances - suffice it to say that it's aromatically dazzling. There is notably more size, weight and concentration to the huge yet not ponderous big-bodied flavors that bathe the palate in sappy dry extract before culminating in a massively persistent finish. If there is a nit it's that there is a trace of warmth but this beauty is so good that it's easy to forgive such a minor imperfection. In sum, this seductively textured and unreservedly classy effort is stunningly good and should age for years, perhaps even several decades. As I am wont to say when something is indisputably über-fantastic, this is a 'wow' wine. Indeed I would go so far as to say that along with the '14 Coche Corton-Charlemagne, this is one of the two greatest wines of the 2014 vintage. I would repeat what I said about the Chevalier, which is to say that if you can find, and afford, it, buy it.

The 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru is without doubt one of the wines of the vintage, and a real classic in the making. Aromas of tangerine oil, confit citrus, pear, toasted nuts and subtle spice introduce a generous, powerful wine with breathtaking balance and precision. There’s so much depth and incipient complexity wrapped up in its intricate structure; it's suppler than the Bâtard but no less tight knit. For all the fuss that is made of Montrachet, here is one wine that really lives up to the reputation of the vineyard and the domaine, which I’d argue is its greatest exponent. If this can survive for 20 years in the cellar, then it will be perfection itself. 2022 - 2040