Cornas, Domaine Auguste Clape 2009

Tasting the 2009 Cornas reminds me of a lyric from the great Who anthem, "Meet the new boss, same as the old boss." As close to perfect as a Cornas can be, this is the single greatest Cornas I have ever tasted. Its black/purple color is accompanied by notes of blueberry liqueur, blackberries, charcoal, incense, licorice and a subtle notion of smoke. This seamless, full-bodied, exquisitely pure, complex, savory blockbuster is the most remarkable Cornas I have ever tasted. It will hit full maturity in 5-7 years, and should last for 25-30 years thereafter.

Perhaps the finest Cornas I have ever tasted from Clape, the flagship 2009 Cornas comes from the estate's oldest vines. My notes begin with the words, "his greatest ever?" Fresh fig, blueberry, charcoal, incense, licorice and burning ember-like aromas are present in this phenomenally concentrated, textured, seamlessly constructed blockbuster. The tannin, acidity and alcohol are all well-integrated in this 2009 that sees no new oak. A legend in the making, it should drink well for 20-25 years.

From old vines (close to a century in age) in Sabarotte: Pungent aromas of licorice and cassis, with a sexy floral quality and a hint of licorice pastille. Very good clarity on the powerful, clinging finish. From 50-year-old vines in La Cote: Deeply pitched cassis and plum aromas, with pungent floral and herb qualities. Lush and expansive dark fruit compote flavors and intense spiciness. Seriously long and chewy. From 80+ year-old vines in Reynard: Hypnotically perfumed bouquet of red and dark berries, with a sexy floral quality. Very rich but lively as well; shows great depth and richness, with intense raspberry and mulberry character.