La Croix de Beaucaillou 2009

The grand vin is the result of an increasingly strict selection process, with approximately 50% of the production going into the final wine and the balance used in the Croix de Beaucaillou. The 2009 may be the finest example of this cuvee I have yet tasted. Up-front, precocious and generous, it possesses a dense purple color, a big, broad, unctuous texture and abundant notes of creme de cassis and black cherry fruit intertwined with hints of wood smoke, vanillin and earth. This nearly viscous-styled wine can be drunk in 2-3 years or cellared for 15+.

Bruno Borie has done a remarkable job at Ducru Beaucaillou. Drink: N/A

Tasted at the château. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, matured in 60% new oak and the rest, one-year old, coming in with 13.35% alcohol and pH of 3.69, this has a lifted, quite minty nose, blackberry, a touch of cedar, taking its time to unfurl and then later, a touch of black olive tapenade. The palate is full-bodied, quite smooth and sensuous, very pure, quite feminine, small black cherries, a touch of plum and a nice citrus-led finish. Almost understated at first, but growing all the time in the glass. Silky smooth finish. Tasted March 2010.

Rose, mineral, currant and berries on the nose. Full-bodied, with firm and chewy tannins and a long finish. Polished and pretty. Could use a little bit more in the center palate, but very good indeed. Second wine of Ducru.

Another second wine, before Jade Jagger was given the job of repackaging it like a bottle of scent. Relatively pale crimson. Luscious and yet dry on the end. Really well constituted. Dense and set for a great future. Drink 2015-2023

Bruno Borie's relentless pursuit of excellence at Ducru Beaucaillou has resulted in the production levels falling by around 50%. The chief beneficiary of the draconian selection process here is this - the second label - which contains fruit that was once always used for the "grand vin". Another wine - Lalande Borie is made from the vineyards further inland from the estuary near Talbot. Really a single vineyard separate wine - 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 60% new oak. Very much a rival for Clos du Marquis. Good density, serious "vin de garde" style with deep, saturated black fruits, very much trying to taste like a classed growth rather than a forward second wine. Some fine smoky oak. Serious.

The richness of cassis backed by bramble gives flesh on the nose and this depth of flavour enriches the palate. The sweetness of the fruit and rounded tannins gives richness but nothing jammy as there is enough bilberry and bramble freshness to balance. The firmness on the back palate gives the finish a serious quality. Drink 2018-2030.

Yet another top château whose second wine isn't so far behind the grand vin in terms of quality, Ducru has produced a stunner here. It's very much a Cabernet-based style, with muscular structure and fresh acidity, but the tannins are beautifully handled, enveloped by notes of dark chocolate, plum and sweet blackberries. 15+ years.

Black red, really good depth of fruit and totally polished Saint-Julien style with spice and grip due to high proportion of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2014-22.

Very approachable wine with bright, generous fruit. It has a round, rich and creamy texture and a lovely finish. I highly recommend this one, I'd be more than happy to have a case or two.