Chablis Bougros, Domaine William Fèvre 2019

Aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that's one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.

The Bougros vineyard is the most challenging from the viticultural point of view, Didier tells me. It requires a team of nine people for a total of 1800 man hours out there with their pickaxes. The results are excellent though. One of the palest colours. A discreet nose, but there is, some power of white fruit lurking behind. Dynamic tension on the palate, with excellent grip, a little spice, with a dancing deep concentration of white fruit. And properly Chablis. Tasted: July 2020