Sori Tildin, Gaja 2010

Wow. Impressive, complex aromas of lilacs and dried strawberries, with hints of flower stems. Full body with focused, polished tannins. It draws you to the centre palate of the wine and seems to last forever. Makes you want to drink it now but will be better still in 2016.

Gaia Gaja uses the word "salty" to describe this next wine, and I see her point. The 2010 Sori Tildin shows a dry, firmly structured quality that enhances those extraordinary, breezy overtones of lead pencil and brimstone that so fittingly frame the Nebbiolo grape. The lingering end-notes of rose petal, ginger and cedar are striking. You immediately feel the tannic structure and power of the wine. The jump is very sharp next to the Costa Russi, and that's why this is one of Gaja's best cellar-agers. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.