Yquem 2006

A monumental bottle of Sauternes despite a moderate level of residual sugar (122 grams per liter), the 2006 d'Yquem displays a singular, distinctive and elegant bouquet with aromas of thyme, sage, curry, baked pineapple and oregano. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s rich and concentrated, with superb acidity on the mid-palate as well as freshness, tension and crystalline texture, concluding on an endless, ethereal finish with a racy bitterness. Simply stunning! 2023 - 2065

While no surprise here, this wine, which will be bottled in 2009, is certainly this estate's greatest effort since their 2001. It completely outclasses everything from the appellation, but even when you're number one, that's often hard to do. This light gold wine offers up a sensational smorgasbord of aromas including huge honeyed pineapple and other caramelized tropical fruit flavors, massive richness, and a viscous, unctuous texture with the oak beautifully integrated. The wine has enough acidity to buttress its full-bodied mouthfeel, but this is not by any means the sweetest or most alcoholic of the d'Yquems I have tasted. In fact, in the range of d'Yquems, this is a powerful wine, but it is one built more on finesse and elegance, a la the 1988. Nevertheless, this wine will prove to have 50+ years of longevity. The finish, the mid-palate, the sensation of looking at a skyscraper of Semillon with a small dosage of Sauvignon, is impressive. Like all of the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes, one can drink this young, but the nuances and complexities really don't emerge for at least a decade, especially in the case of a wine such as this. Bravo!

The 2006 Yquem is initially tightly-wound on the nose before revealing enticing scents of mandarin, dried honey, quince and just a very slight adhesive scent. This is well-defined yet certainly demands more coaxing than its peers. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation, a caressing viscous texture with desiccated orange peel and a touch of bitter lemon that counterbalances the richness. I noticed this 2006 becoming spicier with aeration. Excellent. Tasted at the Yquem dinner at Rick Stein's restaurant in Barnes. 2022-2050

Unbelievable wine - with so much more concentration and richness than the other examples of 2006 Sauternes tasted immediately beforehand. Yet with no shortage of life either. Amazing smoothness, richness and depth spreads all across the palate - even better than I remember the 2005 at this stage. Edge of caramel already but the tingle of fresh green verdure. Great texture and lift and weight of sweetness. No volatility apparent whatsoever (unlike some others) - in fact Pierre Lurton said the VA levels were lower than in the last 30 years. Great finesse - wonderfully pure.

Medium bright yellow, quite pale for 2006. Wonderfully fresh aromas of pineapple, coconut, caramel, vanilla and spices lifted by a floral element. Silky on entry, then dense but almost magically light on its feet, thanks to penetrating acidity that gives sharp definition to the tight, impressively concentrated lemon, pineapple and coconut flavors. Racy rather than thick, and almost painfully young today. Finishes with a captivating note of beurre sale A wonderfully pure and refined wine for 2006, but this really needs time in bottle to knit.