Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots, Domaine William Fèvre 2023

(from a 2.2 ha parcel at the bottom section of the vineyard; even so, the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to use). A riper yet more elegant nose freely offers up aromas of white flowers, mineral reduction, citrus zest, iodine and sea breeze wisps. There is fine precision and verve to the tension-filled medium weight plus flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the bitter lemon-tinged, youthfully austere and markedly dry finale. This very classy effort is also potentially outstanding. Drink 2031+

Initially a bit restrained, the fruit opens up on the palate with notes of white peach, nectarine and Mirabelle plums, accented with a salty minerality and a hint of spice. Chiselled and fine but still impressively powerful. Fèvre owns more than a third of Bougros; 2ha are located in this unique parcel that rises steeply from the river in south-southwest-facing slopes, producing this exotic, concentrated wine that will live for decades. Drink 2028-2045.