Bellevue-Mondotte 2001

The newest baby of Gerard and Chantal Perse, this 5-acre vineyard (with vines averaging 45 years of age) was acquired in 2001. A blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (similar to Pavie-Decesse), it was cropped at a tiny 15 hectoliters per hectare, enjoyed a seven week maceration period, was aged in 100% new oak, the first six months on its lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered after 24 months of aging. There are only 4,500 bottles of this elixir. While not as complex or delineated as Pavie or Pavie-Decesse, it is opulent, even voluptuous, with a heady perfume of ink, black fruits, truffles, and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied, expansive, and velvety-textured, this huge, sweet, chewy St.-Emilion boasts great concentration and texture. Drink it during its first 15-18 years of life, although my instincts suggest it will live a lot longer

The new trophy wine from Chantal and Gerard Perse is already controversial. From a 5-acres vineyard, this blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare has a dry, vintage port-like character. Blackberry, licorice, and cassis aromas and flavors flow through the olfactory senses and over the palate like an out of control Rabelaisian smorgasbord. Extremely full-bodied, unctuously-textured (unusual for this vintage), and immensely long, it borders on being over the top and too heavy, but it is a thrilling tour de force in winemaking, even if perceived by some as "excessive." Nevertheless, there is not a more concentrated wine from the vintage. The wine has developed considerable definition, and looks, smells, and tastes like a great Bordeaux. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2022.