Kevin John Chardonnay, Cullen Wines 2024

Tasted as a tank sample (bottling was imminent as of January 27), the frisky and wildly aromatic 2024 Kevin John Chardonnay leads with crushed shells and fragrant esters, layers of white peach and pear, green apple and cut lime. The wine is bright, fresh and as yet unevolved, but it shows real length and persistence through the finish. Hailing from the hottest, driest and earliest vintage in Margaret River's history, the freshness in this wine is testament to the resilience and balance of the dry-farmed vineyard in Wilyabrup. The wine will be released later this year. 13.9% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink: 2028-2044

Absolutely stunning. Complex, tightly wound and intense aromas of lemon peel, flint and crushed river stones with curry leaves, kaffir limes, white orchard fruit and salted nuts. The profound palate balances power and delicacy, supported by persistent, multidimensional acidity and structure. Iconic, made under unprecedented climatic conditions from the hottest, driest and earliest vintage in Margaret River. An excellent, unique and near-perfect chardonnay. One for the ages. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Brought for a dinner at home by Andrew Caillard MW, this is easily one of the best Chardonnays that I have drunk all year, and I couldn't recommend it more. Luscious, vivid, bright citrus with salt-scrape pumice texture, juicy and controlled, hard to stop refilling the glass. Named after estate founder Kevin John Cullen. Drink: 2025-2036