Meursault Genevrières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2022

Mid lemon yellow. A bouquet of such exquisite elegance. A well-judged ripeness on the nose which still has a lot more detail to emerge, then a mouth filling volume of high-class wine, subtly nuanced, a very delicate lemon tinge on top of an assured complex orchard fruit. There are muscles under the flesh but all is beautifully balanced.

As is often the case, the Genevrières is the biggest of the premier crus in Lafon's cellar, with a rich, honeyed fruit aroma with notes of ripe apples, apricots, and quince. The texture is weighty and dense, yet not lacking the freshness to bring it into balance. The grapes are from a half-hectare in Genevrières Dessus, most of it was planted eighty years ago with massale selection, but 25% replanted with clones in the 1990s. The grapes are slowly pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts in mainly used casks. (Drink between 2025-2045)