Riesling Clos Sainte Hune, Domaine Trimbach 2006

Fresh lime, yellow plum, musk, and intimations of chalk dust in the nose of Trimbach's 2006 Riesling Clos Ste-Hune usher in a strikingly fresh, firm palate possessed of meat stock and game-like animal undertones. This bottling of barely over 12.5% in alcohol is much more tightly-stitched than the corresponding Frederic Emile, and finishes with penetrating, bright length, combined with overtly crushed stone minerality. No Alsace 2006 of my experience can top this for focus, clarity, or long-term (I would estimate 12-15 years') aging potential, although the Frederic Emile is in its very different way more striking, as well as more fun to drink now.

"The yeasts were very efficient in 2007," notes Jean Trimbach, pointing to a collection of wines several of which are below one gram in residual sugar. The grapes and people did good work, too: I cannot recall a collection at this address that was more consistently fine. Only three special bottlings were essayed by Trimbach in 2006, all Riesling, of which the Frederic Emile and Clos Ste. Hune are among the high points of this vintage in Alsace.