Doisy Daëne 2009

The 2009 Doisy-Daene was spectacular out of barrel, however it has never quite reached those ethereal heights in bottle. Perhaps this rich, generous vintage did not quite suit the crisp, tense style of Denis Dubourdieu's Barsac? Compared to others in this blind tasting, it comes across as more muted on the nose with scents of beeswax, marmalade and lanolin, though the Sauvignon Blanc is very expressive. The palate is very well-balanced on the entry with crisp acidity cutting through the viscous texture. The finish is rounded in the mouth, offering attractive notes of lemon sherbet and orange essence. Everything is very "contained" at the moment, although the tension suggests that it should age well. I suspect this will need a decade before it really blossoms. Drink 2020-2040.

Intense aromas of dried citrus fruit and honey follow through to a full body. Medium sweet, thick and layered, with sliced cooked apple notes and a delicate spicy finish.

Pale gold in color, the 2009 Doisy Daëne features expressive notes of honeyed lemons, dried mango slices, apricot tart and Seville orange marmalade with a touch of shaved almonds. The palate delivers mouth-filling stone fruit and citrus preserves layers with great purity and a lively backbone, finishing wonderfully zesty and youthful. 2019 - 2047.

Streak of green to the pale gold. Rich, lip-smacking and satisfying on the nose. Very big and bold, like pear juice fermented by a wizard. Lovely stuff. Lots of bracing structure as well as all the richness. Very long. Date tasted 29th March 2010. Drink 2018-2035.

Floral, elderflower, sherbet lemon with a little touch of butter and Demerara sugar. The acidity isn't zesty but does manage to balance the wine. Touches of botrytis.

The fleshiness of super ripe fruit enriches the nose and gives a sensuous lushness on the palate. The fleshy fruit is enhanced by caramelized orange and lemon refreshed by lime and given spice by Noble Rot. The back palate is long rich yet racy. Drink 2025-2050.

The proportion of Sauvignon Blanc is much higher in 2009 - it's normally closer to 5% - but it's added an extra dimension to Denis Dubourdieu's fine wine. The sweetness (150 grams) and 14% alcohol are balanced by grapefruity, almost thiol-like notes. This is fresh and tangy with a hint of crème brûlée, well handled oak and a finish that lingers on the palate. 10+ years.

Refined complex aromas, very deft (as usual) rendering of the aromatic complexity of the berries, long, intense, pure, wonderful balance between richness and elegance.