Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto 2020

An exquisite mix of elegant aromas dominates the nose, with notes of Parma violets, orange peel, Earl Grey tea, dried cherries, smoky woodland and earthy minerality. Full-bodied, it shows significant tannins, but it’s velvety, sweet and full of aging potential. The flavors are enhanced by energetic, slightly lifted acidity and a super-long, austere finish. It will last for decades. Try after 2025

The Il Marroneto 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie (tasted once in the winery and again in my office) is another classical expression of Sangiovese from vintner Alessandro Mori and his son Iacopo. This vintage is best described as more charming compared to the stacked 2019 vintage or the powerful 2016 edition. This is a very pretty wine, elegant and finessed, with pretty floral highlights of rose and violet that lean into a subtle menthol note. There is caramelized sugar and candied orange. The wine lives in oak for 46 months with just a brief time in steel before going into bottle (at the end of July 2024). This vintage is a little closed or tight in terms of mouthfeel, which suggests it needs more time in bottle to spread its wings. Drink: 2027-2055

Deeper crimson than the regular 2020. Lifted, intense nose and, again, the difference (as with the two 2022 Rossos) is an extra vibration in this cuvée. Anchovy sauce makes the wine taste sweeter. So full of life, it could be drunk immediately! Drink: 2024-2045