Piper Heidsieck Rare 2012

A graceful Champagne that waltzes across the palate, with a fine, plush mousse carrying a lovely range of ripe black cherry, pureed raspberry, candied ginger, Mandarin orange peel, grilled nut and pastry flavors enlivened by a vibrant spine of lemony acidity. To a certain extent, the precision and elegance belies the focus and breadth on display, so sip this slowly and enjoy as it opens in the glass and expands on the palate, echoing on the finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2040.

Complex notes of buttered toast, orange rind, licorice, fig and brioche on the nose, followed by honey and salted caramel on the palate. It’s layered, powerful and rich, yet so fresh and lively, with very fine bubbles that are well integrated. Long and intense. 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir. At least 10 years on the lees. 8g/L dosage.

The concentration, ripeness and paradoxical brightness of Rare 2012 leaps out, in contrast to the cooler, sharper 2013 and 2008 releases. There's no excess weight here, though, as there was in 2006. The voluptuous, fragranced Chardonnay of the Montagne de Reims is not shy with its fleshy orange citrus and tropical tones. It's held in beautiful tension by zesty acidity, gentle Pinot Noir firmness and the maturing notes of charry citrus, honey on toast and even vanilla, all lifted by emerging white pepper and spice details. What strikes most is the gliding, satin-smooth mousse and effortless length, all of which promises a great deal for those willing to wait.