Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo, Gaja 2021

Presenting a more youthful appearance, the 2021 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo is a complete wine already, with ripe, expressive fruit as well as notes of ripe cherry liqueur and pressed flowers. While the oak is going to need time to come together, the wine simultaneously displays broad tannins, power, weightlessness, and an intense mineral drive. It evolves rapidly in the glass, developing notes of pure cinnamon, and continues to reveal more layers over time.

The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, 16 kilometers away from the original estate. It was designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production have moved to this location, which was completed in time for the 2023 harvest. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, the family purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

Good full ruby-red. As is often the case with the Sorì San Lorenzo bottling, this is youthfully monolithic on the nose then slightly more open on the palate with, compared to the 2021 Sorì Tildin, more fruit than spice. The long aftertaste is broad and beautiful. Youthfully tight and shut down, I have no doubt this will turn out to be a memorable Sorì San Lorenzo in time. Drinking window: 2033-2042.

Always the most structured of the firm’s Barbarescos, the impressive Gaja 2021 Sorì San Lorenzo delivers flavors of cherry tart, ripe strawberry, blood orange and licorice set against a backbone of firm, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and energized. While you won’t need many years for this to come around, it also boasts excellent aging potential. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14%