Chevalier Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 2022

Here the ultrapure if decidedly inexpressive nose is quite fresh and bright with its array of Granny Smith apple, citrus zest plus a stunning array of floral and spice elements. The borderline painfully intense large-bodied flavors are akin to rolling small pebbles around in the mouth before terminating in a bone-dry, youthfully austere and massively persistent finish that is Zen-like in its harmony. Not surprisingly, this is exceptionally tightly wound and a wine that's going to need every bit of 15 years to arrive at its full maturity. With that said, it is likely to be approachable after 'only' 10 or so years. This too is potentially brilliant. (Drink starting 2037)

This Chevalier-Montrachet is a marvellous achievement, a monumental wine that balances elegance, finesse and power. The aromas – flint, citrus, white peach and a hint of smoky reduction – are already pretty, yet only hint at the complexity to come. The balance of extract, acidity and lush fruit is nothing less than thrilling. This is a wine that will provide pleasure for decades to come. (Drink between 2030-2060)