Shiraz The Armagh, Jim Barry Wines 2019

The vineyard that the fruit for this iconic Australian wine is sourced from was planted in 1968, giving us the benefit of over 50 years of vine age—a very good thing when we consider fruit tannin and concentration. In addition to the vineyard placement and vine age, Clare Valley benefits from a wide-ranging array of elevation (190 meters to 610 meters) with high diurnal range. All of this means ripe wines, tense wines, and powerful wines, which just about sums up Clare Valley. So, to this wine: The 2019 The Armagh Shiraz is complex, layered and spiced, with a multitude of hung deli meats and small goods packed in alongside the purple fruits and exotic spice. The wine is supple, for all the power, and unfurls over a long finish to show the muscle and might of this iconic wine. In a vertical of four vintages (2016, 2017, 2018 and this 2019), this has the second-highest alcohol of the lot, at 14.1%, showing that concentration and density doesn't have to come at the expense of finesse. I love this.

Wild roses, smoked meats, perfumed strawberries and green peppercorns, I love the nose on this wine. Broad and imposing straight away, layered and deep the tannins make the first mark, really filling the mouth with a chalky, velvety plushness that is massy and so wide. The tannins do most of the talking but once they subside and melt into the cheeks, the spiced red berry fruit, liquorice, flint/slate, tobacco, clove, dark chocolate cinnamon and leather come through - this is full of complexity, muscle and power yet carries so much aromatic interest. Clearly still young and not as generous or easy going as the 2018 at this point last year but this is built to last and has something so utterly charming and inviting about it. Totally moreish and delightful. I adore this wine but put it away and come back to it in a few years. 3.5pH. Ageing 18 months in French oak. Winemakers Peter and Tom Barry.