Meursault Perrieres, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2015

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières reveals a nuanced bouquet of citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, nutmeg and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tensile, mineral profile. It isn't as profoundly multidimensional or satiny as Lafon's superb Charmes, but it's a classy and incipiently complex Perrières that ranks as one of the vintage's best.

The grapes from the younger vines were declassified. A fine pale primrose colour and a delicious bouquet, the fruit picked at the perfect time (on 20th August, a week before Clos de la Barre). This is on the leaner side with some greengage and fresh citrus, but for me all the necessary fruit is there, and the waves of flavour keep surging across the palate. This is exceptionally stylish and promises a marvellous future.

Profuse aromas of ripe apple, marzipan, acacia flowers and smoke, with a suggestion of butter and cream. The texture on the palate is dense, long and powerful, with a complex array of flavours that linger on the endless finish. Lafon enjoys nearly one hectare of vines in this preeminent premier cru of Meursault. His holding is in Perrières Dessus and much of it is more than fifty years of age. In 2020 it was picked at just 12.5% potential alcohol. The grapes were lightly crushed and run into cask (20% new) for fermentation and ageing. (Drink between 2025-2040)