Volnay Clos des Chenes, Domaine Michel Lafarge 2003

As beautiful as both the aromatic profiles of the Caillerets and Ducs are, this is a big step up with a dazzling panoply of aromas including ripe red and black fruits, spice, underbrush, game, smoke and that lovely floral/violet component when pinot becomes perfectly ripe that leads to sweet, mouth coating, texture and powerfully structured flavors blessed with superb extract and stunningly good balance. To be sure, it's quite ripe and plumy but there is no hint of roasted, over the top quality. A knockout wine worth a special search and one that should last twenty years, perhaps longer. In short, this transcends the vintage. Note: from 45 year old vines that sit just above Champans Drink: 2013+