Yquem 2013

The 2011 d'Yquem offers up a spicy, powerful bouquet with aromas of nuts, sweet spices, saffron, exotic fruit, baked pineapple and a touch of oak with aeration. Moderately weighted, with a tense, elegant mid-palate, it’s a gourmand and satiny wine with ripe acids and a saline finish. The inaugural "trie," or initial grape selection, began on September 6, rendering it the fourth-earliest in a span of 125 years, with only 1893, 1960 and 1997 preceding it. The harvest concluded with notable promptness on the October 5.

Bright aromas of sliced mango, papaya, botrytis, and lemon follow through to a full body, medium sweet and phenolic palate that gives the wine structure and beauty. Electric acidity and freshness yet an impressive energy and length. A severe selection was made. 40% of the production was destined to the grand vin. About 80,000 bottles made. This is 70% semillion and 30% sauvignon. Better in 2018.

Firstly, you notice the color, which is a touch deeper than recent vintages at this stage. The bouquet is quite honeyed and rich for Yquem at this early juncture, with subtle scents of peach skin, white flowers, and a puff of chalk and frangipane. The palate is viscous on the entry, all about the texture at first, coating the mouth with luscious botrytized fruit. There are touches of Seville orange marmalade, fresh apricot, a hint of spice and passion fruit. This is imbued with impressive depth and weight, perhaps an Yquem that is determined to make an impression after last year's absence. It might not possess the finesse of a top flight Yquem, but it has immense power and persistency.

A majority of the 2013 Chateau d-Yquem was picked between September 25 and October 2, augmented by a second trie on October 11 after rains had provoked botrytis and then a third trie from October 21 and 24, before a final pass through the vineyard at the end of the month. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay told me that all the lots were used, but only 40% of the crop made it into the final blend, which equates to around 70,000 and 80,000 bottles. During assemblage of different lots, the blend ended up 30% Sauvignon Blanc, a little higher than usual, and 70% Semillon, while the residual sugar comes in at 140gm/L, which is a little higher than average. The reason is that the fermentation stopped naturally at this level, therefore the alcohol is a tad lower than average at 13.1 degrees.

Incredible aromas of botrytis, including freshly ground nutmeg and dried mushroom powder. Dried fruits. Full body with incredible clarity and balance. Very dense and gorgeous. Very sweet. It goes on for minutes. Really superb. A monument to the vintage. Breathtaking precision. A severe selection was made: 40% of the production was for the grand vin - about 80,000 bottles made. This is 70% sémillon and 30% sauvignon blanc - a little more of the latter than normal. They started harvesting the same day at Cheval Blanc, which is rare.