Musigny VV, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 1998

Massive aromas of red and black fruits and a fascinating array of spices and violets with austere yet regal soil inflected flavors of incredible density. This is arguably 100% pure extract of pinot yet the textural impact does not come across as syrupy or viscous. There is superb balance to go with the serious nature of this wine and it simply reeks class. Wine simply doesn't get much better. It is Musigny such as this that forcefully puts forth the question as to whether this isn't the greatest dirt in all of Burgundy (there are of course rebuttals to the question but not many).

Tasted blind, I was able to identify the producer from the tannic structure of the 1998 Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The nose is very attractive: well-defined with boysenberry and raspberry preserves that segue into scorched earth and light seaweed scents. The palate is not quite as endearing, with firm, almost obdurate tannins that lend this Musigny a foursquare personality. It possesses the weight and sinew to age for another decade, yet at the same time it is difficult to see the return for one's patience. If only the palate had the charm of the nose. Drink 2014-2025