Bual, Cossart Gordon 1988

The 1988 Bual, released under the Cossart Gordon label, comes from Calheta with 115g/L residual sugar and 9.04g/L total acidity. This is harmonious and focused on the nose: Clementine, marmalade, candle wax and grilled hazelnuts. There's just the right amount of VA to give it lift. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth texture. The acidity is such that it completely counterbalances the residual sugar, making it fresh…buoyant even! Elegant and poised on the finish, this Bual comes highly recommended. 1,593 bottles released (plus other formats). Drink: 2024 - 2050

A peaty, dark, ginger-chocolate nose, slightly lifted by acetone, in the prettiest way. The wine is like one of those beautiful vintage silver forks, weighty in the hand, broad tines, finely etched with curlicues of vines and flowers, worn by age to fit the fingers, a patina of green, copper and gold shadowing the curves and bends. There is apricot, and chocolate. Praline, and quince. It's quicksilver and keening; a haunting that curls your toes; a sough that soothes your soul. It scribbles its words on your throat and soul.