Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect to see grow with time in the bottle. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. The 2006 has been nothing short of magnificent both times I have tasted it. Comtes de Champagne remains the single best value (in relative terms) in tête de cuvée Champagne. I suggest buying a case and following it over the next 20-30 years, which is exactly what I intend to do. There is little doubt the 2006 Comtes de Champagne is a magical Champagne in the making. Drink 2016-2046.

In much the same fashion as the ’06 Rosé this is aromatically quite restrained with notably cool and elegant aromas that speak of citrus, floral, yeast and green apple nuances. The wonderfully refined mouth feel is enhanced by the beautifully fine effervescence that shapes the medium weight flavors that culminate in crisp, intense and gorgeously complex and persistent finish. This is not only a terrific effort but it’s an amazingly good 2006 as there are no exotic hints plus it offers exceptionally good verve. While this could certainly be enjoyed now I would be inclined to hold it for at least another 3 years and 5 will probably be the sweet spot. Drink 2018+.

Lemon in colour with a greenish tinge. Wonderfully opulent with an intense, creamy nose perfumed with floral aromas, wood smoke and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it is smooth and intense with a rich, defined and supple texture. The very fine mousse adds to what is a super elegant and refined Champagne with lovely purity and precision. This is all about finesse. There is plenty of length on the beautifully balanced and enduring finish.

“Disgorged April 2013 for this tasting. Very lively bead indeed. Very sumptuous nose seems eerily close to fine white Côte d'Or burgundy. Still tight and very glamorous. Really classy and explosive. Hugely promising. There is delicacy and charm here. Drink 2015 – 2025.”

Tasted almost two years after disgorgement, the 2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs shows a beautiful golden-citrus color and opens with a fascinating intense, floral, slightly reductive nose that develops enormously in the glass, offering lemon and lemon confit aromas along with flinty notes of crushed chalk and the iodine flavors of the Atlantic Ocean. This is an utterly complex and promising bouquet! The palate is terribly fresh but also rich, lush and intense, with the purity of the finest wines of the Côte de Blancs, the concentration of perfectly ripe Chardonnay and the suppleness of 2006. This has impeccable balance paired with high tension. The wine is very tight and still seems to be on its way right now. Although there is a first hint of aromatic ripeness, this should be a great Comtes de Champagne in a couple of years. The finish is tensioned, concentrated and mineral but keeps its talents in an almost bursting bubble. Drink 2020-2034.

This wine feels like an old friend, having drunk dozens of bottles over the past few years. In the UK, a famous high-street supermarket decided to delist this wine and offer some extraordinary discounts. For myself and other savvy enthusiasts, this was a unique opportunity to study the wine, the vintage, and the differences between subsequent disgorgements on a grand and affordable scale. Early examples were delightfully restrained and even austere (2006 is a ripe vintage; though it is perceived as a "low acid" year, the combination of ripe tartaric acidity and high natural ABV gives the wine structure and precision). In the interim, the pear-like fruit has gained a layer of succulent, stone-fruit creaminess, though the aspect remains intense, fresh, and youthful. A long, mineral finish completes the experience. Evolving at a snail's pace, this is genuinely a brilliant effort from Taittinger and possibly wine of the vintage! Drink from 2023-2038. Tasted: 15-Jun-23.