Ausone 1998

The 1998 Ausone, a tour de force, is one of the vintage's great wines. Its dense purple color is followed by notes of camphor, crushed rocks, spring flowers, black raspberries, blueberries and black currants. This full-bodied 1998 still needs another 5-6 years of cellaring. It should prove to be one of the vintage's longest-lived wines.

A super-silky red with notes of stone, limestone, cedar and plum. Full-bodied but so polished. The length and complexity are amazing. Just opening now.

Tasted at the Ausone vertical in London. A deep garnet core with some ageing on the rim. The bouquet is very attractive, beginning to develop secondary aromas with macerated black cherries, blueberry, honey a touch of damson and a touch of espresso. Superb definition, the oak fully integrated into the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied, very fine tannins, still very taut with noticeable acidity. This is certainly an Ausone that would benefit from decanting, the finish developing an almost Burgundian texture with red cherries, a touch of bergamot and a hint of Chinese tea. Again, it needs time, for there is a lot of glycerin at the moment. Great length and persistency, fanning out beautifully with time in the glass. Drink 2011-2025.

Dark crimson. Lightweight nose. Round and supple with firm tannins on the finish. Embryonic – but probably worth waiting for.

With Alain Vauthier now in complete control, the family squabbles that have interfered with the wine-making at this legendary property are at an end. Ausone's great terroir is now able to express itself to the full in this wine which is the probably best Ausone since 1959. Tar, black fruits and violets on the nose with a silky, creamy texture. Lovely sweet fruit and well integrated oak. 52% Cabernet Franc, 48% Merlot. Less than 2000 cases will be made.