Grange, Penfolds 2020

The celebrated reputation of Grange places every new release under intense scrutiny, and this passes muster as sturdy and convincing, but without the stellar fireworks of 2019 or the instantaneous drink-now temptation of many from the past decade. Coming from the low-yielding 2020 vintage, a broad net was cast across McLaren Vale, Barossa and Clare to find the right mix of fruit parcels showing both concentration and complexity. With the modest addition of 3% Cabernet Sauvignon (noting that Penfolds did not release its elite Bin 707 and Bin 129 Cabernets from the 2020 vintage), this pulls tight focus on Shiraz’s primary allure – blackberry and black plum rinsed in rich mocha and dark chocolate, piqued by a dusting of cinnamon, pepper and vanilla. This is made to be cellared, and will tell a more exuberant story in another decade. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2055

Blackish dense purple. Lightly muted nose promising something pretty exciting underneath. Very rich and heady. But lower key than many vintages. Blackcurrant and quite a bit of dry tannin on the end. Still very tight and cough-medicinal. Extremely youthful. Retasted after a couple of days in a stoppered decanter: heady nose recalls creosote and top notes of luscious mulberries. The palate has opened out to something almost fat, finishing with an appetisingly saline edge. Very persistent. After five days in a stoppered decanter: this was a supple pleasure to drink. Aeration recommended for at least the first two decades of this exceptional wine’s life. Drink Date: 20230 - 2060