Clos de Vougeot, Domaine d'Eugénie 2019

11 new barrels in 14, 75% whole bunch. Another glowing imperial purple colour. The bouquet is less ecstatic, the wine in the mouth is magisterial. There is a huge intensity of flavour but this 2019 Clos Vougeot stays light on its feet, whole bunch present, but very much maintaining discretion. Very good tension at the finish. Red fruit with a touch of liquorice, this year the Clos Vougeot is challenging the brilliant Grands Echezeaux. Tasted: November 2020

This too is deftly wooded with an ultra-floral-suffused nose that speaks primarily of both red and dark berries, newly turned earth and a hint of humus. There is excellent volume to the denser and muscular yet relatively refined broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in a youthfully austere, compact and gorgeously long finish. The supporting tannins are dense but admirably fine-grained and while the overall impression is not as classy as that of the Grands Echézeaux, there is a bit more here. Patience is strongly advised. Note: from a 1.37 ha parcel of 60+ year old vines situated close to the Château; 75% whole clusters Drink: 2036+