The 2013 is the most powerful, dense young Salon I have ever tasted. Champagne of mind-bending complexity, the 2013 possesses tremendous mid-palate intensity and power from the very first taste. Lemon confit, dried flowers, mint and a touch of brioche appear first, followed by light tropical accents that add an exotic flair. Imagine the sizzling energy of the 2008 and the persistence of 2004, with more mid-palate richness and riper fruit. Two-thousand thirteen was a cool, late ripening year. Harvest started at the beginning of October under sunny, dry days and cool nights, conditions that have not been seen since then. Readers will find a spectacular, modern Salon endowed with tremendous depth and very little of the youthful austerity that once defined Champagnes from cooler years here. The 5.5 grams per liter of dosage is perfectly judged. In a word: Magnificent.
Very light, burnished gold and animated by an extra fine mousse, the 2013 Salon is an exquisite le Mesnil-sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs from a later, and slower ripening vintage. Aged ten years on fine lees and disgorged January 2023 with a six gram per liter dosage, the 2013 brings pure, aromatic luminescence to the glass with notes of warm tarte tatin, crème brulée, citrus confit, lemon sorbet, crushed oyster shells and viburnum blossom. Medium-bodied, the mineral-driven palate is texturally poised and completed by a measured depth of fruit intensity charged with seamless acidity that coats the palate like electric satin. Well-heeled and sophisticated throughout, this 2013 Salon is pure elegance, harmony and finesse. The incredibly long finish lingers in your mind for days, if not longer.
2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.
