Vosne Reignots, Domaine Jean Grivot 2012

There is a solitary barrel of the 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Reignots this year, which is one more than there will be for 2013. This 2012 is being raised in one first used for the 2010. It has an understated but alluring bouquet with dark berry fruit, forest floor and citrus aromas, the stoniness developing reluctantly with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a candied entry. It is light on its feet, succulent to its very core but does not quite own the complexity or the structure of Les Beaux Monts on the straight-laced finish. Whoever gets one of the 300-odd bottles – do let me know how this works out, but like Cathiard’s own Aux Reignots, I was just expecting more given the repute of this premier cru.