Lynch Bages 2004

Ex-cellar bottle tasted blind at the Lynch Bages vertical. This has a noticeably clear, deep garnet colour. The nose is very clean and correct although it lacks a little complexity and flair: straightforward black fruits, cedar and pencil shavings. The medium-bodied palate shows a little hardness at first, but softens with aeration and soon adopts a more succulent texture with ripe black cherries, Doris plum and bilberry. Certainly this is a well balanced Pauillac packed full of ripe tannins with a crisp poised finish of black plum, cedar and cassis. Although it does not have the length of the 2005, nor indeed the 2006, it is a very confident, expressive wine for the vintage. Drink 2011-2020+ Tasted September 2009.

Evolving quickly, the dark plum/garnet-colored 2004 reveals notes of tobacco leaf, forest floor, black fruits, new saddle leather, licorice and earth, good, rather than great, depth of fruit and medium body. Drink this mid-weight effort over the next 10-15 years.

Aromas of currant bush and raspberry follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a medium finish. A balanced and pleasing wine already. Best after 2010. 35,000 cases made.

Inky rich damson with edges of russet and a curl of campfire smoke. This is elegant and balanced, juicy cassis, damson puree and bilberry fruits. There is a generosity to the structure, with concentration through the palate, with plenty of firm Pauillac tannins and finesse. An excellent 2004 that also delivered high yields of around 57hl/h (the full AOC allowance), and yet is still going strong, proof of how much natural intensity there is on these soils. 60% new oak.

Sweet nose lacking a bit of zest, a bit stale on the nose, though relatively fleshy on the palate. An easy drink without an excess of tannin. Needs just a bit more zip. Quite stodgy. No hint of the spiciness that is characteristic of the property.

Cassis and liquorice on the nose with a dash of pepper. Firm and savoury but not in the least meaty at the moment. Pretty youthful and less expressive on the palate but finishes well with a long juicy freshness. Drink 2010-2020. Date tasted 17 Feb 09.