Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Charvin 2007

I believe the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape is the finest wine ever made at Charvin. Their wines never achieve a lot of color, but this is one of the most saturated ones they have produced. The blend from the 45- to 50-year-old vines is 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese, all aged in cement tanks prior to being bottled unfiltered. A terrific nose of kirsch, lavender, licorice, forest floor, and spice box soars from the glass of this full-bodied effort. With fabulous density, a multidimensional mouthfeel, and a 45+-second finish this brilliant, elegant, feminine-styled wine is loaded with concentration and intensity. Like many 2007 Chateauneuf du Papes, the extraordinary fruit level makes it hard to resist. However, it will be even better in 3-5 years, and should last for 15-20.

Even though this is crammed with fig and currant paste notes,it maintains a racy, silky feel, thanks to perfectly embeddedstructure and a complex backdrop of incense, charred mesquite,shiso leaf and freshly ground espresso. This has ample grip, butit's extremely graceful-a deft act in this vintage. Best from 2010through 2030.

These two brilliant vintages from Laurent Charvin include a superb 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape displaying a personality reminiscent of a hypothetical blend of his 1990 and 1998. A blend of 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Mourvedre, Vaccarese, and Syrah, all aged in old tanks, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of black raspberries, kirsch liqueur, and subtle notions of underbrush and nori seaweed wrapper. Rayas-like in its ethereal richness, length, and texture with a sense of lightness despite its weight, this beauty possesses superb purity, equilibrium, texture, and elegance. Some serious tannins are lurking behind all the fruit, so this 2007 will benefit from 2-4 years of cellaring. It will drink beautifully for 15-18 years.