Bonnes Mares, Domaine Robert Groffier 2011

(vinified with one-third whole clusters; aged in one-third new oak): Bright ruby-red. Complex, expressive aromas of black raspberry, cassis, mocha, game, brown spices and underbrush. Silky on entry, then thick but alive in the middle, with harmonious acidity framing the flavors of black fruits and exotic flowers. An incredibly thick and ripe 2011 with explosive fruit. Finishes with seamless tannins, lovely length and very good peppery lift. Drink now or in ten years. These 2011s are undeniably rich and thick, with adequate acidity, but I miss the ineffable treble notes the best examples of the vintage can offer.

(50% vendange entier; the malo finished before the 2011 harvest; sulfited lightly a week before my visit): Dark red-ruby. Aromas of blueberry, blackberry, licorice and violet; seems more typical of its site than the previous samples. Then dense and sappy in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness and a suggestion of cooked beet to its blueberry and blackberry flavors. Finishes saline and strong, with plenty of acids and tannins. A bit heavy but not at all overly sweet.