Yquem 1996

Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality. There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. However, patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060.

Note: Yquem spends 42 months in 100% new oak. No cask tasting is permitted, and the wine is not released until 5 years after the vintage. For example, the 1998 will be released some time in 2003; the 2001 will not be released until 2006.

This performed brilliantly at the Roberson's vertical, even outclassing the lauded 1997! A moderate golden hue. The nose is closed at first, very muted as it was before. But the palate is where it is all going on: honey, white peach, excellent levels of botrytis with a touch of barleysugar and spice towards the finish. Very long, blossoming in the glass with the reluctant nose eventually offering some lovely coconut and almond aromas. This could be a really great Yquem in another couple of decades. Patience is needed. Drink 2025-2050. Tasted November 2006