Gosset's emblematic Chardonnay-dominant 2012 Extra-Brut Celebris is a more than worthy successor to the 2008, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, freshly baked bread, green apple and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive palate that's layered, concentrated and tensile, with a tangy spine of acidity (the house's trademark) and a long, saline finish.