The black label ('etichetta nera') from Pira is a Barolo Riserva, and this 2006 is the latest release. Muscular and reductive at first, it is focused on mineral tones of savoury rhubarb, clay and pot-pourri allied to cinnamon, wild strawberry and blood orange flavours. The structure is firm, with silky tannins of the greatest refinement melded with crisp acidity and impressive concentration. A high-flying vintage and an outstanding Barolo chiselled to perfection. Drink between 2022-2036.