Chablis Vaudesir, Billaud, Samuel 2020

From a parcel that unites east and west exposures, Billaud's 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir is a brilliant wine in the making. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of white flowers, orange oil, nutmeg, oyster jus, freshly baked bread and crisp stone fruit, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with terrific tension and concentration, concluding with a long, penetrating finish.

From both sides of the valley. Pale colour, a light coconut touch from the wood, but it is the fruit that counts. Racy and energetic, still very backward, with some tannic tension at the back. The white fruit extends beyond but this is still hiding its light compared to say Preuses. As always, the length is impressive. Drink from 2028-2038.

Cask sample. Vibrant nose with orchard fruit dominating. Warmth on the palate but cut with a laser-like acidity which keeps everything on track. A grand cru which offers some character of the Côte d'Or, even in this warm, early vintage. Will age very well. Drink: 2023-2037