Parajes de Bierzo, Cesar Marquez 2019

The red 2019 Parajes comes from nine different villages of Bierzo, with some 50 different vinifications; it's the regional red that contains some of the single-vineyard wines he bottles. All of the reds mature in used oak barrels, and in 2020 he also included some foudres. I love the expressive and floral nose that is caressing, nuanced and elegant and the juicy and round palate with very fine tannins and terrific balance. It transcends the price category. There are some 20,000 bottles of this. There is a jump in quantity here. It was bottled in December 2020.

Bright ruby colour. Full of character on both the nose and palate, layers of fresh flowers, dried herbs and crunchy cherry come through. The nose has a leathery, tobacco-like tone reminiscent of Nebbiolo. The palate is pithy and finely etched, with persistent structure set against the wonderfully fragrant fruit in the middle. Fleet-footed but intense, the savoury edges make this very moreish. Long and lifted on the finish.