Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Louis Jadot 2011

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Musigny 2011 from Jacques Prieur displays more red fruit on the nose compared the blue fruit found elsewhere in this flight of blind Chambolle Amoureuses and Musigny 2011s. It is beautifully defined, perhaps a touch earthier than its peers, with a slight meatiness developing in the glass, subsequently wild heather and broom. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe, quite toasty tannins. There is impressive depth here, although it does not quite possess tip-top finesse and delineation on the finish. Still, this is very fine and here, under blind condition, out-maneuvered some of the more revered names.

Good medium red. Red berries, coffee and mocha on the nose, with a note of blood orange emerging with air. Began large-scaled and spicy but rather inexpressive, but aeration brought greater sweetness of fruit and elegance, with a whiff of blood orange providing lift. Ultimately more expansive than the Estournelles but this wine will need at least a few years in the cellar following its release.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques has another bouquet influenced by the sea - well-defined with crisp delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins. There is a little hardness here at the moment that will need several years to soften, although there is focus and freshness on the finish. Perhaps a little foursquare at the moment, it is a wine that will need patience to come around. Drink 2016-2025+

This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot's expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. "At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites," he explained in reference to his 2011s, "but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity." We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages.